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Chocolate, Mezcal, Mole, and Chapulines

After successfully riding the 7 hour “vomit comet” through the winding roads from Huatulco to Oaxaca city with the only incidents being a few naps to calm queasy stomachs and a couple spontaneous top of the mountain toque purchases, we arrived safely in the city. Doing what we normally do the moment we arrive to a new area, we wandered around to get a feel for the place.

Amazing mountain views along the way.
Our first few glimpses of Oaxaca city.

It was dark when we arrived at our place, but when we awoke, I felt like we had been placed on the set of “Encanto” It’s been close to everything, the people are awesome, but where our room is located, there isn’t a lot of airflow and our particular room doesn’t have aircon. Even the one who “sleeps like the dead” has had a few nights of tossing and turning in and out of sheets!

Oaxaca city is known for its food, art and charm. Y’all know how down we are for the eats, so . . . . here we go . . . .

We started out our time here taking a food tour. Our tour guide, Betsy, grew up in Oaxaca city and has family who owns one of the food stalls in one of the markets (there are MANY markets here, so yes . . . . . Rocky is happy!). She took us around to 3 different markets, between eating we did walk it off a bit, but . . . . still . . . . so . . . . . freaking . . . . stuffed . . . . by the end!

One of the markets had a “grill alley” which was sooooo confusing because of how to order, what to order, the way to do things and the payment system, so it was nice to have someone to show us how it’s done.
We also had the chance to try a few different moles, and I learned something new. I had always thought that moles were chocolate based, but it turns out only some are!

Though Oaxaca doesn’t grow cacao, it was on the ancient trading route and eventually became a chocolate centre. So . . . you can find chocolate everywhere! 😋

So cool to see the process!
To drink chocolate straight, you can have it cold or hot with three options – chocolate with water, milk, or corn!

Along with drinking hot chocolate or coffee (which is also popular here), Oaxaca is also known for its various traditional beverages. The few we’ve tried so far . . . . .

Tejate – a cacao and corn beverage that is quite labour intensive and ONLY made by women.
Cafe de Olla – coffee and spices combined and served in a clay pot.
Pozole – another corn and cacao drink
Mezcal – we’ve really wanted to have some we like, but so far we are both ‘meh’ for mezcal.
A variety of aqua frescas (water and fruit) including one popular in this region . . . . .
. . . . Tuna (not what English speakers would assume) – fruit of the prickly pear cactus.

Of course we’ve been enjoying all of the cornflower tortilla based meals covered in beans, cheeses and meats like tlayudas, garnachitas, memelas, street tacos, etc. and so far the only thing we both can take a pass on are tamales (no matter how much chocolate mole they may be smothered in!)

meh!
Yeah!!

There have been two surprises I’ve come across with our eats . . .

First, considering how many chilies there are here, we haven’t come across anything overly spicy.
Second, I wasn’t surprised by there being bugs to eat here, but I WAS surprised that B-Rod actually tried some!

These grasshoppers (called chapulines) can be found everywhere and are even on menus in restaurants. If you know me, you know I’ll usually try most things (I ordered a dish with them on our first night here), but I was surprised/impressed when B-Rod agreed to sample them on our tour. I actually don’t mind them. B-Rod’s not a fan!

As great as the eats here have been, we find that Mexican food tends to be heavy on the meats and extra light on the veggies. As much as we love corn flour tortillas, we’re feeling like a break from them for a bit would be nice. So, as we will be in this city a bit longer our next mission may be seeing if we can find a few salads, or a few fruitstravaganza meals (ie mangos mangos mangos!!) might be in order.

We had intended to go back to the coast for a few days before making our way back home, but it turns out that B-Rod’s airline ended service to Huatulco until the winter LAST weekend. So . . . . looks like we’ll be in Oaxaca city for a few days longer and flying out of here via alternate means. We’re liking this area, though it’s slightly disappointing to know we won’t be floating in the sea again. Guess it just means extra time soaking in the rooftop jacuzzi admiring the view over the city !

2 Comments

  1. Neeta Ittoo Neeta Ittoo

    Very nice article and loved the way you described the dishes. I have a friend from this area and got to taste some of the dishes. And I also thought all moles are chocolate based. Thank you for sharing this experience with us. Enjoy 😊💛

    • RockyB RockyB

      Thanks so much Neeta and funny that you also thought all moles are chocolate based. I guess we’ve both learned something new! 😃

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