Our Haida Gwaii experience continues and the majority of our time has been spent at our home base of Tlell.
There’s a lot of areas on these islands that are difficult to get to and very remote. So, besides Tlell, we’ve only really spent time at the other places that automatically came up as highlighted on the map: Queen Charlotte, Port Clements and Masset.
According to Google, Tlell has a population of 375, and it definitely feels smaller than that. The people we’ve met are great, and it is definitely a place where everyone knows everyone, what everyone is doing and where everyone is! Tlell is said to have originally been a Haida fish camp, but was eventually populated by ranchers and farmers from England. The Richardson ranch (purchased in 1919) is located here which is the oldest operating ranch in Haida Gwaii.
But . . . . we’re not ranching or farming people, we’re water people. So, that’s where we’ve spent a majority of our time.
There’s a hike from Tlell that starts from the bridge and runs 5km through magical forests, along the coastline to . . . .
A shipwreck!! The Pesuta ended up here in 1928. It was a 264 foot log carrier and is crazy for me to think that it’s still here. It’s a cool hike and makes for great pics (especially when it’s not raining . . . which has become one of our taglines on this trip 😝)
Another recent hiking “destination” in Tlell is something else that beached along the shore. It’s not that far from the Pesuta, but is separated from it by the Tlell river (which feeds into the ocean), so it isn’t accessed by the same trail. Instead, you have to walk the expansive beach or along the river edge to get to it.
***** WARNING . . . these pics aren’t quite as pleasant and fun as pics from the Pesuta.
The whale was found washed up on the beach in May. It was determined that the whale was one that is known to whale researchers as Kayak. According to Marine Education and Research Society (MERS), Kayak was an 18 year old female that had never given birth. They believe the humpback whale’s premature death was either due to a collision, an infection or complications from a possible pregnancy. Sad to see, but also the reality of current day ocean life. RIP Kayak!
On happier, lighter adventures . . . . . because the Tlell river feeds into the ocean, it is affected by the tides. The level of the river is high, low or slack at various periods throughout the day. One day, we decided to take some paddle boards out to ride the tides. We rode the wave of high tide inland to the Richardson ranch (where the boys created a stir walking up to the farm store in their wetsuits to buy pepperoni sticks) and then rode the low tide surge back to where we had come from (enjoying pepperoni sticks along the way). It was also Putter’s first time on a paddle board, so that was a fun adventure!
One of my favourite water experiences so far has been our time spent in Masset. We did the Tow Hill hike in Naikoon Provincial Park which took us through more magical forests up to a lookout over the beaches. Before heading up to the lookout, we spent a bunch of time fascinated by the scenery, and . . . . . .
. . . . . exploring the tidal pools. Sea anemone were in a bunch of the pools. The boys taught us to stick our fingers or fists in them. Weird, but interesting!
We finally pulled ourselves away, to hike up to the top for an amazing scene (especially because it wasn’t raining! 😝)
Tow Hill has definitely been a top highlight, but swimming in the ocean has also ranked up there. This gal will always choose warmer climes with warmer water, but if the only option is ocean with a wetsuit . . . . she’ll take it.
We were upgraded a few days ago from “waitlisted” to “standby” on the ferry that leaves early tomorrow morning. We may not be flying, but looks like we’re rolling with standby once again! If we don’t get on this ferry, our Haida Gwaii adventure continues for another week. So . . . . catch ya next time, from . . . . ?????