Fun in the Forest with Giants, Fairies & Flamingos

Haida Gwaii . . . . . it might not be the final frontier, but in some ways it feels like it could be!

Haida Gwaii is a grouping of islands on the west coast of Canada separated from the mainland by the Hecate Straight. Formerly known as the Queen Charlotte islands, on June 17, 2010 in a “Giving Back the Name with Respect” ceremony, legislation was passed to rename the area given by Haida Nation leaders as Haida Gwaii meaning ‘islands of the people.’

Haida Gwaii is beautiful, mystical, magical and isolated. It takes effort to get here! Because we are in Hank, the option to fly was off the table. So, we took an eight hour ferry ride across the Hecate Straight (which is considered one of the world’s most violent bodies of water, known for unpredictable swells that can reach 90 feet in height), made our way to Tlell (where our friend Putter is based) and found out a few days later that the SOONEST ferry we could book back to get off the island is AUGUST 6!!!!! Having just opened up to non-residents and non-essential travel on July 1, and with one ferry broken and out of rotation, there seems to be a desire to get off the island (possible resident island fever?) and a need for that second ferry!

In the meantime, we’re really enjoying connecting with our peeps, and though we are really missing the heat down south (though I guess also the smoke!), we are focused on experiencing the magic and slow pace of this area which feels to us like a combination of the west coast and northern living.

The rhythm for our days so far have been hiking, water sports, and eating.

For the most part we have been making meals at home, but our Haida Gwaii experience started with what seems like a very Haida Gwaii activity. The first day here, Putter’s friends invited us out to . . . . . catch some crab!!

The other meal we’ve had so far to “write home about” was a food truck at Masset. I was told there were a couple food trucks in this town, but I didn’t have high expectations (I should know better!). OMG!!!! To add to the experience, we talked with the ‘town philosopher’ while waiting for our food, and sat and ate with a group of vegan construction workers shipped in from the mainland. But . . . those are stories for when we see you next . . . we want to have something to talk about with you!

We’ve spent a lot of time on the water. Putter is currently housesitting, so we’re staying here with her and the boys. The house is bordered on one side by the ocean and on the other side by the Tlell river. Ironically, it’s the river we’ve been spending more time at. At least once a day we go down to sit on the Flamingo (which has been quite the attraction for the few people going by on the road), paddle board or swim. As many of you know . . . I am cold blooded and fuelled by sun and heat. This true southerner had to get herself a wetsuit before she’d even consider stepping foot in that water!

We’ve also spent time doing a lot of walking. The forests here are magical. They are places where I not only imagine fairies live, but . . . .

. . . . . also where giants roam.

Some of the trails that have been highlights for us include the “secret” local trail to Misty Meadows campground and Anvil trail in Tlell as well as the Golden Spruce trail in Port Clements. Did I mention the rainforest is magical?

We love seeing and hearing so many bald eagles here and have had a couple cool experiences. In Prince Rupert while waiting for the ferry, one flew so close beside us that we could look him in the eye and hear his wings whooshing. While in Port Clements, we went to walk on a dock past a juvenile eagle that almost let us past him. As B-Rod made his way by, the bird took off, and . . . . pure magic!

Now of course we’ve gone on walks and had some pretty good finds by the ocean, but I’m going to save those stories for another day. Until then . . . . picture us here on Haida Gwaii. You’ll have to . . . we can’t get a ferry outa here! 😝