This latest tale involves experiences that weren’t expected, yet not only worked out in the end, but also came about spontaneously and intuitively despite my tendency to overthink and overwhelm myself with possibilities and options. It involves three adventures, one of which wasn’t even on my radar, one that had me doing things that make me laugh because I could have never imagined them for myself, and all of which allowed me to connect to both new and familiar people and places. Definitely many “dela frijoles” moments!
Chapter 1: A Great Wall
A couple days before B-Rod had to leave Croatia, I decided that I was going to stay a bit longer. I had learned about something along the way in our travels that I wanted to do, but we just didn’t have the time to do it together.
Since I wasn’t quite sure about the logistics of this plan, and I wanted to enjoy the final day in Dubrovnik with B-Rod before he left, I randomly booked four nights at a beach town just outside of Dubrovnik called Cavtat figuring it would make a good base as a place to simply swim, adjust to solo travel, and figure out logistics for my next steps.
After a couple of days of simply wandering around and swimming in Cavtat, I was ready to set out on the adventure I had stayed behind for. I took a half hour bus to Dubrovnik, figured out where to change buses and took the scenic hour long ride to a place called Ston.
Ston has a wall which is “the longest complete fortress system in Europe (and second in the world behind the Great Wall of China)” and is sometimes referred to as “the Great Wall of Croatia” or “the Great Wall of Europe” Though nowhere near the scale of the Great Wall in China (Ston’s wall is about 5.5km to China’s over 21,000km), I wanted to climb it!
The wall links the towns of Ston and Mali Ston and gives the option of walking the wall there and back or taking a pathway between the two towns one way. I opted to walk the path to Mali Ston and then walk along the wall back to Ston.
I found a spot at the top where there was a bit of shade and I just sat, had some lunch and took in the ✨ magic ✨ of the whole area. I also listened to the sound of the slight breeze . . . . . did I mention there was hardly any people here and I often had the wall to myself?!
It was time to come down, and though the pitch was steeper on this way, the view towards the town was so cool. But . . . . just when you thought you were done with uphill, there was another path up to check out some of the fortresses (this was optional, but of course I had to do that! 😝)
I figured I was happy enough walking the wall and exploring the fortress once (especially because I was there during the hottest part of the day) and wandering around town for a bit. And I probably would have been, but there were only 3 buses running from Ston back to Dubrovnik with wide gaps of time in between.
So after I had wandered, had something to eat, and there were still 2 hours before I had to catch the bus, I figured I’d do the wall again (this time the other way)!
I LOVED this area and found it so peaceful. My one regret is that I didn’t actually stay in one of the towns . . . . and if/when I am back in Croatia, I definitely will!
One thing about how I/we often travel on the fly that I sometimes have difficulty with navigating is finding balance between being in the present/enjoying the current moment and taking time to think about, decide and logistically plan out next steps. I hadn’t quite decided if I was going to go home after walking the wall, do something else in Croatia, or possibly spend a few days elsewhere in Europe that a friend had suggested to me. Then with a couple days before I had to leave my accommodation in Cavtat, I got a message that gave me some direction.
Chapter 2: A Hatter
The message I received that day simply said “Are you in Croatia right now?”
My friend “B”, from Medicine Hat, was currently on an epic adventure with her spouse “G” in Europe and she saw something I had posted about Croatia. Turns out they had just arrived in the country and were heading to one of the islands on the same day I was checking out of my place in Cavtat. After some back and forth, and looking into last minute options of places to stay, I thought it would be fun to meet up with them and go to one of the islands in Croatia which B-Rod and I also hadn’t had a chance to do together.
So . . . . . I hopped on a ferry from Dubrovnik and began a three hour journey. Off to Hvar I went!
I had spoken to B & G a few months before they had set out on their adventures as they were going narrow boating along a canal that we had been on just a few months before and were curious about tips and tricks we may have. It was exciting to see them and catch up on how their experience had been. They were also travelling with B’s sister “J” and J’s husband “R” How fun to have more peeps to play with!
They were an active, adventurous group, and it was fun to do things that are different to what B-Rod and I usually do while travelling. And while B-Rod and I might think about these activities, we’re not always good at the research and follow-up of making them actually happen! 😝
Kayaking with some included beach/swim/snorkel time was on for the first afternoon and it was so great to be out on the water!
The next day we rented e-bikes and saw the island from a different perspective.
We were on a back road, so it was mostly quiet, peaceful riding, and we often had the road/route to ourselves. At one point a tour of quads honking and hollering passed by harshing my mellow. Fortunately, they were gone as quickly as they appeared.
Highlights of the ride included eats along the way, . . . .
. . . . and the abandoned village of Malo Grablje.
It was a great way to explore the island.
I also had some time to explore and wander on my own.
I headed up to the fortress at one point and it was cool to not only look down to see the view, but to also see the path we had taken in our kayaks.
It was a great couple of days and I was grateful to be included in their adventures. Thanks for the good times B, G, J & R!
The next day everyone in the group was planning to move on. By this time I was feeling that I was ready, and it was time to go back to Canada. So, as the adventure group got ready to head to Dubrovnik, I listed on a couple flights to make my way home.
But, it turns out . . . . . there was still another adventure waiting for me!
Chapter 3: An Artist and A Prince
Our way to Croatia and the way home had us going through Rome. I have a friend currently working in Italy for a few months, so I contacted her and had stayed connected with her while on our travels through Croatia. Ideally, I was hoping to meet up with her at some point. But the more we communicated, the more we both realized that her work flow most likely wasn’t going to allow it to happen this time. Knowing I would have had a lot of fun with her, but also knowing we’d eventually meet up again at some time in some place, I had my sights set on going home.
However, the day before I was scheduled to leave Hvar we were chatting AND . . . . some things had opened up for her. By that evening it had been established that if I was game, I was invited to stay at the place where she was staying, and she even had an adventure that would be right up my alley!
Of course I said yes ! And off to Rome I went!
My friend “BH” is a talented artist based in Los Angeles, and has done several summer residencies on a farm in Italy where she is staying again this year. The past couple of years she’s shared pictures, videos and stories of her stay there with me, and I had it in the back of my mind that I would love to visit her there one day. I was so excited that things worked out and today was going to be THAT day! I took the two train journey and then was picked up by BH and her host/curator/owner of the farm/friend “AB” and driven to the farm.
I arrived late (which was right on time for supper in Italy!) and began the period of time (hanging with them) that she warned me would involve “eating my body weight in pasta” 😝
I went to bed full but happy, not yet seeing the farm as I had arrived in the dark. So the next day was the day of exploration on the land, meeting the animals (dogs, geese, chickens), checking out some of BH’s work and getting ready for our “adventure of the day”
The night before I left Croatia as BH and I were discussing our possibilities – how and where we could meet – she suggested if I stayed at least a full day, her and AB could take me around on a tour of little Italian towns in the area. She also made the suggestion that I could turn it into a project/game and jump around little Italian towns. I know I’ve truly found my peeps when . . . . . .😝
Upon meeting AB, and discovering that he had travelled all around the world, I asked him what his favourite place to visit was. “Italy!” he responded with no hesitation. Being shown around the area by a local who truly loves where he lives . . . . . that’s my jam! Oh, and did I mention he is also a prince?! Now, I didn’t have enough time to spend with him to understand the details, but he did explain that after WWII Italy became a republic and abolished the monarchy, so his title of prince is a social and public thing. BH had also told me that he is referred to as prince in various public settings, and I saw some interviews with him online where he was addressed as Principe (Italian word for prince) Borghese, so . . . . . . I was going to be escorted/chauffeured around to small towns in Italy by a prince and an artist that know the area well and the places to get the good eats?! This is my DREAM day!!!!
We ended up visiting 6-7 small towns, and I LOVED it! They each had their own individual character and beauty, we were often the only ones roaming the streets, and it was perfect weather for wandering.
At one point we came across a wedding. BH challenged AB to get involved in the rice throwing . . . . . so he did! 😄
Stopped for lunch, then coffee and a snack, before continuing on.
We also visited the Anagni Cathedral, which was beautiful, but it was Crypt of San Magno underneath that was absolutely stunning!
It was a perfect way to spend a day in Italy with wonderful peeps!
The next day AB had to go to Rome for some art shows. BH had been able to get some work done and decided that she had time to join him. They both convinced me that I might as well spend another day to come experience Rome with them!
I loved how AB wanted me to experience of much of Rome as I could in such a short time.
We got into the city in time for lunch and since it lasted a bit longer, AB suggested BH and I wander around instead of joining him at the art shows and we would meet up again later. So off to wander we did!
Yes it was crazy busy with lots of people, but I still loved just wandering around and seeing the old contrasted with the new, and feeling the energy of ancient buildings and institutions all around me.
Eventually, we met back up with AB and made our way back to the farm later that night. As I went to bed that evening, I knew that I had one more morning of walking around the farm having in-person meaningful conversations with a good friend, one more morning cappuccino made by a prince, one more dance party in the kitchen (because when you put three playful adults in a room with music that’s just what they do!) and one more morning of being totally and utterly “viziata” (spoiled in Italian) because I absolutely was! I fell asleep feeling colossally grateful for it all! ❤️❤️❤️
Now you may be left wondering two things . . . . .
Did I eat my body weight in pasta and did I complete my task of jumping around little Italian towns?
Let me just say . . . . YES to both! 🎉
Thank you Croatia! 🇭🇷 Thank you Italy! 🇮🇹
And thank you B, G, J, R, BH, and AB for being big parts of this adventure and these latest chronicles!! ❤️
- to see the art done by my very talented friend, check out https://www.brookeharker.com
- to see the art and culture magazine edited by AB, check out https://www.rivistasolaria.it
What an adventure. Love your story’s. Life has given you some great stories to share. Thank you. I’m going on a pilgrimage in May and will spend the last 4 days in Croatia.
Wishing you all that life has to offer, Because in turn you share it with others ❤️ Love Carol
Thank you Carol!
I truly appreciate you sharing this, and wishing you all the best on your pilgrimage! ❤️